Aug 20

Sewing Tutorial: Lip Welt Pocket

Pockets are practical elements of many garments, but what about a creating this classic detail with a twist? In this tutorial, I want to show how to sew a lip-shaped welt pocket - a stunning detail that will add a 'wow' effect to your clothes!

This welt pocket may seem challenging from first glance, but you'll be surprised how simple and easy it is to create!

I made this tutorial in video and written formats, so choose which one works best for you! Click below to watch video version, or scroll to read the written instructions. Enjoy creating!

LIP WELT POCKET SEWING TUTORIAL

STEP 1: cut piece of fusible interfacing and place it on top of fabric, glue side facing up. Interfacing should be slightly larger than the lip contour you want to sew.

STEP 2: prepare lip contour from thicker paper and place it on top of interfacing.

Tip: draw lip contour by hand or search for ‘lip contour vector’ images on Google!

STEP 3: sew around the contour, using shorter (2mm, instead of regular 2.5mm) stitch length.

Tip: position lip template, so that needle goes along the edge - this will make sewing difficult details much easier!

STEP 4: cut inside of the shape, leaving about 3mm of seam allowance. Make clip-ins on curves, cutting as close to seam allowance as possible, so that they turn easier.

Tip: use small, sharp scissors to make clip-ins! Here are my favourite embroidery scissors to use for cutting such precision details.

STEP 5: fold interfacing towards garment inside and press around. This will keep seam allowance on garment inside and create shape of our pocket.

STEP 6: cut two pieces of red fabric and put fusible interfacing on the wrong side of the fabric. Fold each strap in half and press.

STEP 7: on one of the straps, attach pocket bag lining and press the seam.

STEP 8: with raw lining seam facing up, slip the lining detail underneath the main fabric and align at the lip corner. Position second red strap (with unfinished side upwards), so that both red pieces are touching at the middle.

STEP 9: topstitch around the lip contour. When topstitching, choose longer stitch length and begin and end seam without any backstitches!

Tip: for extra touch, match bobbin thread color with red fabric color.

Topstitch about 1mm from fabric fold edge

STEP 10: fold the pocket bag towards upper pocket detail and sew both sides and top using standard straight stitch.

STEP 11: press the pocket and it's finished! Add this beautiful detail to your skirts, pants, jackets or coats and give your garments a stunning look!