Serger (also known as overlocker) is one of my favourite and most used sewing tools. However, I know that from the first glance this machine can also look a little bit tricky. In this article I want to share a few tips and tricks that will help you master your serger!
This post is created in partnership with Brother and all sample are sewn using Brother Airflow 3000 overlocker that has air-threading system.
5 OVERLOCKER TIPS
HOW TO REMOVE OVERLOCKER SEAM
Removing any seam can be tricky, but removing overlocker seam can be especially tricky, as we have 4 threads to remove. Luckily, there's a way how to do it rather quickly and easily!
First, take a look at the overlocker seam from both sides: from one side, you'll see straight stitches, from the other sides - only loops. We will remove the seam from the side that has straight stitches.
Overlocker seam from right side (two rows of straight stitches visible) 
Overlocker seam from wrong side (only loops visible, no straight stitches) Using a pin (or seam ripper) start pulling out stitches from top seam of straight stitches.
Pull out thread from top row of straight stitches Once top row of straight stitches is removed, start pulling out second (bottom) row of straight stitches. When you pull out these stitches, looper threads are also removed.
Remove bottom row of straight stitches (looper threads are also removed) After straight stitches are pulled out, you've easily removed the serger seam!
Overlocker seam is now easily and neatly removed HOW TO USE DIFFERENTIAL FEED
Out of all overlocker features, differential feed is probably the most tricky - yet the most helpful one!
If your serger has differential feed, it means that it has 2 sets of feed dogs (metal teeth that are under presser foot), that can be set to move at different speed rates.
Two sets - front and back - feed dogs under the serger presser foot When differential feed is set on 1.0 (on the differential feed dial, which is at the side of the machine) - this means that both sets of feed dogs are moving at the same speed.
Differential feed dial on Brother Airflow 3000 (bottom dial at the right side) When differential feed is set on 2.0, this means that front feed dogs are moving twice as fast as back feed dogs, thus gathering the fabric.
When differential feed is set on 0.7, this means that front feed dogs are moving 0.7 times slower than back feed dogs, stretching the fabric as it sews.
How to apply differential feed settings? Let's take an example of very stretchy rib knit fabric: when sewn without engaging differential feed (setting 1.0), the seam is slightly stretched out due to stretchiness of the fabric.
Stretchy rib knit fabric sewn without engaging differential feed (setting 1.0) - seam is a bit wavy Same fabric, sewn with differential feed setting 2.0 (which slightly gathers fabric) - the seam lays completely completely flat and is not stretched out.
Stretchy rib knit fabric sewn with differential feed setting 2.0 - seam is completely flat Same fabric, sewn with differential feed setting 0.7 (which slightly stretches fabric) - results in even more stretched out seam than without engaging differential feed.
Stretchy rib knit fabric sewn with differential feed setting 0.7 - seam is very stretched out When working with stretchy knit fabrics, knowing how to apply different differential feed settings will allow you to create quality seams without any stretch-out or gathers!
HOW TO SWITCH DIFFERENT SERGER STITCH WIDTH
Your serger may come with option to sew different width overlocker seams, by using stitch width dial (typically located close to the cutting knife). In Brother Airflow 3000 overlocker, you can select seam width from 5.5mm (most commonly used setting) up to 7.5mm width setting.
Overlocker seam width dial set on 5mm - cutting knife is closer to presser foot 
Overlocker seam width dial set on 7.5mm - cutting knife is further from presser foot While standard pre-set of 5.5mm width will work great with most fabrics and seam finish methods, wider stitch (up to 7.5mm) will be very handy when sewing very thick fabrics or fabrics that tend to fray a lot!
Comparison between 5mm (top sample) and 7.5mm (bottom sample) overlocker seams HOW TO SEW MOCK-COVERLOCK ON SERGER
One more useful - yet lesser known - 'trick' on your overlocker is that it can sew a mock-coverlock seam, which will be very useful when hemming knit fabrics and creating super elastic seam.
To sew mock-coverlock seam, first remove the left needle and - optional - disengage the cutting knife.
Fold your fabric as shown in the picture (first at hem seam allowance, then at the hem seam line).
Position fabric under presser foot, so that right needle goes 1-2mm from the fold edge and raw fabric edge goes along the knife line. Start sewing using regular settings.
After seam is sewn, unfold the fabric fold and from right side of the fabric you'll see small ladder stitch; from inside - the raw edges are neatened with an overlock stitch, resulting in very stretchy hem seam finish.
Mock-coverlock seam sewn on serger (fabric right side view) 
Mock-coverlock seam sewn on serger (fabric inside view) This trick will be very handy when sewing knit fabrics using just your serger, without a need to use a sewing machine for hemming!
DIFFERENT PRESSER FEET
If you want to maximize the potential of your overlocker, it's definitely worth trying different presser feet (yes, sergers also have different presser feet, just like sewing machines!).
Brother Airflow 3000 overlocker comes with different presser feet Brother Airflow 3000 overlocker comes equipped with a variety of different presser feet, such as invisible stitch foot, pintucking foot, taping foot, pearl foot and piping foot - all of which will help you quickly and efficiently use your serger for different tasks. Want to learn more about how to use different serger presser feet? Here's a video with tutorials!
Thank you for reading and wishing you a creative day,
Julija
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