- 4 days ago

How To Turn Skinny Jeans Into Straight-Cut Jeans

Looking to refresh your old pair of skinny jeans? In this quick and beginner-friendly tutorial, I'll show you how to easily transform them into stylish straight-cut jeans in less than an hour. With just a few simple and beginner friendly sewing steps, you can give your old jeans a fresh new look. Let’s get started!

This tutorial is created in partnership with Brother.

Click below to watch video version, or scroll down for photo instructions of this tutorial!

How To Turn Skinny Jeans Into Straight-Cut Jeans

STEP 1: measuring and marking.

Mark where you want the jeans to start widening (for this sample, I marked at the widest hip point - see mark '1'). Also, while wearing the jeans, measure the circumference of the jeans bottom (mark '2') that you want in the finished look (in my case, I want the bottom to be 38cm).

STEP 2: marking and cutting jeans cutout.

Using a suitable marking tool (I’m using a disappearing marker), draw an arch, the top point being the line you marked previously. Using a long ruler, draw straight lines to the bottom of the jeans, each line being about 1.5cm from the jeans side seam.

Cutout shape drawn on the side of the jeans

Now cut out the shape, leaving about 1cm of seam allowance on the line inside. Using this cutout as a template, cut out the same shape at the other leg. Make sure that the shape starts at the same distance on both sides.

Cutout shape with 1cm seam allowance on the arch inside

STEP 3: creating template for the fabric insert.

Now we’re going to create a template for the fabric insert. For this, first measure the total bottom width, minus 1cm on each side for seam allowance. Calculate how wide the fabric insert has to be, to reach your desired jeans bottom circumference (in my case, I want hem to be 38cm, so minus 19cm, I get that I need to cut 19cm fabric insert).

On a small piece of paper, draw the same arch you drew on your jeans. Make a few cut ins, leaving a few millimeters at the top, so that the shape does not fall apart. Take a bigger piece of paper and place the shape at the top. Now spread the shape, to add volume - this will give us the extra width at the side that we need. Using the jeans cutout, measure the length of the needed fabric insert. At the bottom, draw a straight line. Divide the arch in half. At the bottom, equally position total fabric insert width on both sides. Connect with straight lines with the top and smoothen the lines.

STEP 4: cutting and baste stitching fabric insert.

Using the template, cut out the fabric insert, adding 1cm seam allowance all around. Cut out two pieces on the fabric insert, one for each leg.

Pin the fabric insert right side together with the jeans, nicely matching the hems and the top center line. Then, baste stitch around the detail, so that it’s easier to sew. This is how the insert looks baste stitched to place.

Fabric insert baste-stitched to the jeans side

STEP 5: preparing machine for sewing.

On your sewing machine (for this project, I'm using Brother Stellaire 2 sewing and embroidery machine), select the straight stitch. I’m going to use a jeans needle, which helps sew thick, strong fabrics easier and reduces risk of needle breakage or skipped stitches. I’m also going to use polyester all-purpose thread, to create a strong seam.

STEP 6: sewing the fabric insert.

Start sewing the hem bottom. Here we have lots of layers and fabric bulk, so when you position the fabric under the presser foot, the presser foot will not be parallel to the metal plate. To solve this, press the front of the presser foot down, and push in the side button. This will even out the presser foot and the machine will easily sew through the bulk. Once sewn past bulk, the button releases into normal position.

Continue sewing all around the insert. Pay extra attention at the top, since we have an arch which will be a bit more tricky to sew - you may want to sew that part extra slow and use an auto-presser foot lift, to easier adjust the fabric.

Sew around the fabric insert using straight stitch

STEP 7: finishing the design.

After the insert is sewn, finish raw seam allowance edges using your preferred way. In my case, I’m going to use Brother Airflow 3000 overlocker, and I’m sewing close to the insert seam, to keep seam allowance to the minimum. At the end of the serger seam, leave long thread tails and bring them back to the seam using big dull needle, to create a nice and secure seam finish.