You can maximize your serger potential by using different presser feet. In this post I want to share 5 serger presser feet that will help you sew invisible hem, create and attach gathers, easily install piping or elastic tapes - all with just one seam!
This post is created in partnership Brother and all samples I’ll share today are create with Brother Airflow 3000 overlocker that has air threading system.
Watch these serger presser feet in the video, or scroll down to read the text!
5 SERGER PRESSER FEET
Presser foot No.1: Invisible hem foot
Let’s begin with the presser foot that's been the biggest game changer for me - and it’s invisible hem foot. With a help of this presser foot, you can create a very elastic invisible hem and neaten raw seam allowance with just one seam.
Here’s how this foot works:
Take the fabric and fold at the hem. Then, fold fabric at the top of the hem line, so that the serger needle catches this new folded edge. On your serger, remove the right needle and adjust the thread tension. Position the fabric, so that the needle pierces the edge of the folded fabric. By adjusting the fabric guide, you can adjust how much fabric the needle will touch. The less fabric is touched - the more invisible the stitch. When sewing, navigate the fabric so that it always touches the fabric guide.
Result - invisible seam with neatened raw seam allowance. This seam finish is also very stretchy, allowing to hem knit fabrics and create elastic invisible hem. I do recommend trying out this seam first on a piece of fabric to test it and fine tune all settings to get best results,
Using this presser foot, you can also create a decorate flatlock stitch
Fold fabric and adjust the fabric guide, so that it goes by the marking on the serger metal plate. When you sew a seam, unfold fabric layers and now they stand close to each other, creating a ladder stitch on one side and decorative flatlock seam on the other.
Presser foot No.2: Taping (Elastic) foot
One of my most used presser feet is taping (elastic) foot. This foot has a slot where to add a tape or elastic and attach it in the seam.
I like using this presser foot whenever I’m sewing knits and I want to protect shoulders from stretching out. As shoulders are cut on angle and while wearing close they get lots of friction, overtime they may stretch out, but adding clear elastic tape will help solve this issue.
To use the foot, open the guard and put tape or elastic in the slot, so that the right edge of the tape goes along the guide. Then close the guard. When you sew, gently hold the tape and let the presser foot install the tape as machine sews.
The result - we get nicely installed tape right in the middle of the seam and no part of the tape is outside the seam. The seam maintains full elasticity, but we have improved significantly the recovery of the seam and it will not stretch out longer.
While you can install elastic without a special presser foot, from my own experience it’s a bit tricky as you have to navigate the tape, while with this special presser foot, the foot does this job itself, making sewing elastics much more simple task.
Presser foot No.3: Gathering foot
With a help of a serger gathering foot, we can gather the fabric and attach it to flat fabric with just one seam, while also neatening raw seam allowance and maintaining seam elasticity.
Place fabric you want to gather under the presser foot, wrong side of the fabric facing up. Put fabric you want to keep flat in the slot in the middle section of the presser foot. Lower the presser foot. On serger, adjust differential dial from 1 to 2 (the higher the number the more fabric will be gathered). To change gather size, change stitch length - max length will create bigger gathers. Now sew with a serger, navigating the fabrics, so that the needles and knife are going along the seam line. Once the seam is finished, we created and attached gathers with just seam.
This presser foot will be extremely helpful when you need to attach lots of gathers, especially on knit garments, where you want to maintain seam elasticity.
Presser foot No.4: Piping foot
Piping foot is a great way to add decorative detail and neaten raw seam allowance, all in one stitch.
At the bottom, piping foot has a groove which hugs the piping cord when you sew, allowing sew very close to the cord. Without the foot, we wouldn’t be able to sew as close.
First take ready made piping tape or simply create your own by wrapping a cord in selected fabric. Now put the piping between two layers of fabric, right sides together. Put fabrics under the presser foot and make sure that the piping goes into the groove of the presser foot. Start sewing using a standard serger seam with regular settings. As you sew, keep navigating fabric so that the cord always goes through the groove.
And that’s it, you’ve added a wonderful piping detail. Best part about this technique is that because of elastic serger seam, if you pair it with elastic piping, you’ll be able to use this finish even on knit stretchy fabrics which would be complicated to do otherwise.
Presser foot No.5: Pearl sequence foot
With a help of pearl sequence presser foot, you can attach a string of pearl beads onto the fabric edge, creating beautiful decorative element.
To use this presser foot, first remove left needle and disengage cutting knife. Adjust the stitch width according to bead size. Take string of pearls from 3-5mm, put into the pearl fitting. As you sew, the looper threads ‘hug’ the pearl and keep it in place, while needle attached the pearl string to the fabric.
Here are all 5 serger presser feet that will help sewing faster and easier. If you'd like to learn more about sewing machine presser feet, this is the video you may be interested in:
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