HOW I MADE: a hidden button closure


Hello Everyone!

In latest post about my first coat, I promised to share a quick step-by-stepΒ on how I made it. So, without further ado, here is how I made it!

1 STEP. The closure is installed to one side of the coat (I choose right side), onto the side which is folded to inside of the coat and the instalment starts before adding lining and collar to the coat (basically you only have to sew the coat sides together and pockets added before starting hidden button closure).

2 STEP. Cut 2 stripes out of your lining fabric (stripe length should be the same as the front of your coat; stripe width should be approx. 7 cm).

3 STEP. Take chalk and mark a straight line, approx. 1 cm from folding line (note: the marking should be on the part which is folded to inside of the coat). The line should start about 3-4 cm from the top, and finish 5-7 cm from the bottom. Draw a new line, which should be 1 cm away from the first line.

4 STEP. Take one stripe you cut from lining, fold in 0.5 cm for seam allowance, place it on the first line you draw and sew with straight stitch through the line. Take the second stripe and place it on the second line and sew again (photo below shows how this step should look finished).


5 STEP. Cut between two seams you just sewn (reffer to photo below for cut line). Through the cut, fold in the lining stripes to the inside and iron it (photo below shows how this step should look finished).

6 STEP. Mark where your buttonholes should go and sew them (note: you should sew your buttonholes only on coat fabric and one strip of lining your sewn on). Photos below shows how this step should look finished.

7 STEP. From the inside of the closure, sew the lining stripes together around the edges (like creating a bag), so that the inside of the coat would not be visible through the closure.


8 STEP. Sew small 1-1.5 cm stitches between the buttonholes, joining both layers of lining strips together, so that the closure stays closer to the body when wearing the coat (photo below shows where these stitches should go). The closure is done for now and you can proceed with other coat making steps.


9 STEP. Finish the hidden buttonhole closure as the last step of your coat making, by adding a straight stitch through all layers (this is the only seams from this closure that will be visible from the outside of the coat). Please reffer to photos below, showing where the seam should go.

This is it – the hidden closure is done! Hope you enjoyed this quick how-to as much as I did making this coat! πŸ™‚

If any part is unclear – please let me know in the comments below, I would be glad to help.

Best wishes,



5 thoughts on “HOW I MADE: a hidden button closure”

  1. I love this coat! I’m a bit confused with some of the steps. I’m going to make a sample and get back to you when I get stuck! I’ve made a hidden buttonhole facing before on a vintage Vogue pattern and on a Palmer Pletsch McCalls coat. But neither are your method.


    1. Hi Jill! Yes, this how to is a little complicated – in fact, when my teacher started telling how to do, I literally didn’t get that :)) Please let me know how the sample goes – I would be glad to hear which parts of how-to to improve!


  2. I had to read it a couple of times but I think I get it. Thanks! It’s very similar to the initial steps in making a bound buttonhole (in your method you cut 2 pieces of lining whereas in the bound buttonhole it is one piece). Do you finish the top and bottom of the slit in any way? Or do you just leave it raw?


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